August 10, 2011

 
 
In August 2011, Daniel, Sean and I joined an Alpine Club of Canada trip to Mount Tsar.


We helicoptered in from Golden, British Columbia to our basecamp. We had good food, the beer that we smuggled in, and even the odd warmish shower. Here a marmot looks down on the curious activity of the camp.


We were told on day one that Tsar was "out of shape" and that we were not expected to get up it. The problem was that the snow was too soft, and earlier attempts wound up postholing up to the hips in unconsolidated snow. So we spent the first few days just enjoying the scenery. Mt Tsar is close to the Columbia Icefield and the Clemenceau Icefield and the Shackleton Icefall: basically it's surrounded by snow and ice.


Of course we'd start early each day, and that allowed us to get up some minor summits. I've always enjoyed glacier travel just for the aesthetic. This photo shows the three Rasmussens and Christina. Always out in front! I always preferred glacier travel to steep ice and rock. You're just strolling across a plain of snow, flipping the rope to keep it out of the way, and marveling at the rock summits piercing ice.
(photo by Thierry)


Rasmussens again with Tsar in the background.
(photo by Thierry)


Christina imitating a sun-dog.


Rasmussens on the home stretch to camp after a long day in the sun.
(photo by Thierry)








After a couple long days, Daniel, Sean and I elected for a down day and did some top-roping on some nearby cliffs.








The summit of Mount Tsar from camp.


As the end of the week approached, our guides decided to offer an attempt on Tsar. The boys and I signed up. Even if we didn't get up we were going to get some great views and a close up look at a spectacular peak. Well, we got it! The red line shows our ascent route up Tsar.

A picture of us on the north ridge taken from base camp.
(photo by Cameron)


This shows the difficulties of the rib heading up to the north ridge.
(photo by Thierry)


Here we are on top of the ridge, heading for the upper icefield.

As hoped for, fabulous views got better and better with remote peaks, rarely climbed, stretching off to the far horizon in all directions.


Photo of the upper icefield by Thierry.


We were very lucky. The snow that had been unconsolidated set up beautifully the night before our climb. It was like walking across styrofoam.


Photo by Thierry who was on my rope along with Christina. Up ahead is the middle of the three ropes with Daniel. They put each of the three Rasmussens on a different rope; they didn't want to lose all three of us in some crevasse.


I love this photo. Cameron watched our progress all day long from base camp and took these photos. This one shows us crossing the upper icefield; that's my rope in fact.


Now we head up the last few steepish ice steps.




Sean with Zac.


Daniel with his (slower) rope mate. Although the rope is supposed to be taut here, Daniel kept that section tight as a piano string for the whole 14 hours.


Another photo by Cam showing us on the summit plateau.


Three Rasmussens on Tsar. A first!


Looking down on another group, barely discernible silhouetted on the rock ridge.
(photo by Thierry)


The Rasmussens and friends relaxing above the camp.


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